Headed north

An amazing day's outing, if a long one, to the Quebrada de Humahuaca, north of Salta, and very mountainous, and conspicuously more indigenous in its population (7.8%) than anywhere else I've been.  Above, a boy and his young llama; below, some stripey rock formations just before Purmamarca.

The entrance to Purmamarca (there are check points everywhere in this country);

the very lovely and simple church of Santa Rosa - founded in the C17th, though this building dates from the C18th;

street scene in Purmamarca.

And on to Huacalera: street art;

the town square;

a street ...

and after that, when we stopped in Humahuaca, I did the unthinkable, and left my cell phone in the van when we transferred to small cars to go to the summit where one can see the amazing rock formations of the Serranía del Hornocal.  I mean - how could I?? (though I suspect I could very well remember them better, as a result).  It was a long and rough ride up to 14,250 ish feet, with us chewing coca leaves against altitude sickness - I usually get a headache at 13,000 feet, and didn't, so I guess the worked.

Then back down to Humahuaca:

Then, driving back, a stunning visit (no photos allowed inside) to Uquia and its church: inside are one of the few complete series of Arquebusier Angels in the Andean colonial world (aka depictions of angels with guns, and in Spanish colonial uniform) - I've been fascinated by this genre ever since I saw such paintings in Denver Art Gallery.

This is one of the most meta photos I've ever taken: goats crossing the Tropic of Capricorn (that may not actually be true, since it shifts northwards by about 15 meters a year, due to changes in the sun's axis.  But hey, we got out of the van to see a marker for the T of C, and a huge sundial, so officially this is the line that delineates the boundary between the tropics and the southern temperate zone).

On the right, a California sweatshirt, on the young woman filling up her thermos that doubtless has mate leaves in it.  I realize why I'm so wary of mate: it's because the last time I had it was on an island on Lake Titikaka. and it - or rather, presumably, the water used to make it - gave me giardia, which was ... uncomfortable, for an age.

Overlooking Maimará - or rather, overlooking cemeteries outside Maimará - this gives a sense, in miniature, of the rock formations I can't show you: these are known as the Painter's Palette.

and then the clouds started to roll in - here, above a Saturday afternoon soccer game.

Today reminded me so much of the kind of travel I did thirty years plus ago, and it was brilliant - but, long.  And off again tomorrow!

 

more Salta

The Basilica Menor of San Francisco is remarkable not just for the elegance of its tall tower (round here, they call it a miracle that Salta has never recently been hit by a major earthquake), but for the carved marble curtains over its outer doors.  The inside includes a dome with Argentinian flags streaming down from it.

A few blocks away is the very lovely Convento San Bernardo, originally built in 1586 and used as a monastery and hospital by the Bethlemite Fathers - an order founded in Guatemala in 1658 and best known for providing hospitals and medical care in South America.  Mind you, this (a previous version? some of this?) was destroyed in an earthquake in 1696, and then rebuilt in the mid C18th.

which is when - at least one can see the date here! - this carob-wood door was carved by local indigenous artists.

Round the corner, this mural was on the facade of the local National Parks office: they don't have iffy NASCAR races and caged wrestling bouts in theirs, I think - but I'm off to one early in the morning, and will report back.

And nearby, a fish.

At last, I got into the cathedral when there wasn't a mass.

Then to the Anthropological Museum, where one isn't allowed to take pictures: I should think not, either, since the central attraction - "attraction"? - is the perfectly preserved corpse of an Incan boy who was sacrificed in the 1500s - that seems very recent - who was found in 1999, together with two other equally immaculate corpses (a girl of c. 13, a slightly younger boy around 4 or 5 - I think they rotate them in the display), frozen into the icepack and thermafrost at the top of a tall volcano on the Argentina/Chile border.  The Children of Lullaillaco were, like other similar victims, made to participate in ceremonial marriages in Cuzco before being walked back, drugged (they already had been fed coca leaves and maize beer for months to make them woozy), and then left, entombed, when asleep, to suffocate.  It's not surprising local indigenous people have mixed feelings about them being displayed, but I certainly learned a lot about sacrificial rituals (and Inca pottery - that I could draw - and ritual gifts with feathers or cameloids).  I think it was the fact that when these children were alive, the printing press had been invented; Chaucer was writing, and so on that made me understand a bit better than before why the conquistadores were so keen to - well, conquer.  Cultural and religious difference is one thing: child sacrifice maybe is another.

The Sala de la Escritora has a very comfortable huge day bed, to which I retreated to work, after that, before having a slow dinner here - and no, I did not have the llama carpaccio.  Imagine!!  At this time of the year, it's been mushrooms mushrooms mushrooms all the way.

 

to Salta

It was a long day traveling - off and into an Uber in Córdoba at 6.30 a.m., and arrived in Salta, in the north west, just about an hour before sunset.  Argentina is a huge country - but everything passes through Buenos Aires, unless one's driving, or taking (very) long-distance buses, so I'm feeling that I'm getting to know the airports - especially the Aeroparque - well.  Arriving into Salta was wonderful, with a backdrop of the high Andes, and then (after another Uber - a godsend here) a stunning hotel: my room is called La Escritora, and not just any old writer, but Juana Manuela Gorriti, a very radical nineteenth century writer who composed in a number of genres; lived in Peru and for a while was married to the president of Bolivia; and was very much a feminist, arguing for women to be integrated into intellectual, literary and political life; she wrote novels and short stories - oh, and she came from Salta, indeed.  Clearly this is the hotel room I've always been meant to have, with a bathroom decorated especially for me.

One thing I came here knowing something about, and want to learn more, are the ongoing protests against lithium mining in the region.

Here's the cathedral, by dusk

and by night;

here the rather stunning Basilica Menor y Convento San Francisco.

This was nearing the southern end, really, of the Spanish invasion (though obviously they pushed on south to Cordoba and beyond) so the streets have far more of a feel of a genuinely Latin American country, and things are more chaotic - many motor-bikes - it reminds me very faintly of Arequipa, in Peru.  More tomorrow!

 

pleasantly and unpleasantly Germanic

A trip into the Sierras today - first past a very, very large reservoir, and then to a mountain village, La Cumbrecita, which is pedestrian (and evidently equine) only, and was founded as a commune in 1934, and then grew at the hands of German and Austrian immigrants in the late 1930s: wonderfully peaceful; keen on ecotourism and eco-everything; and the kind of place where one could easily imagine holing up and writing - until one starts to think: why not, actually, go to Switzerland or Bavaria or Austria?  - the only plausible reason being that my Spanish is a good deal better than my German; although part of today was also, confusingly, spent talking French to a couple on the same tiny tour.  So why did you choose to come to Córdoba, I asked (for it's not an entirely obvious destination).  Well, I had a solar return chart done to see where I should spend my birthday, said the woman, and ...

It even had its own little Alpine chapel up in the pine trees.

One could easily be anywhere in early winter in sub-Alpine Europe ...

Pan-global kitsch;

and very specifically Argentine kitsch;

and a cafe-restaurant where I had some cheese for lunch that happily was, in fact, more New Mexican than Alpine.

But by contrast, Villa General Belgrano.  This was a Germanic Aryan nightmare.  It was founded by 130 survivors from the German battleship Admiral Graf Spee that was sunk - I think by the sailors themselves? - in the Battle of the Rio Plato in 1940, and they must have hoofed it until they arrived here - and settled where some German speculators had already been building a base since 1930.  To say that it has a different feel from La Cumbrecita is an understatement.  It's built around breweries and beergartens and an annual Oktoberfest - not that there's anything wrong with that - but it's also constructed around a certain version of German-ness - and apparently Nazi visitors and sentiments still are found here, even if this counts as hate speech under Argentinian law.

There are certainly some picturesque corners,

but basically I couldn't wait to get out of the place.

 

Córdoba, day 2

Another view of the cathedral, this time with a pigeon (mostly, the air is alive with screeching parakeets).

The monastery of St Teresa was absolutely lovely - especially the little cloister, full of orange trees.  There's still a very reclusive Carmelite nunnery attached, apparently.

The building houses a collection of religious art, some of it fine examples of nineteenth century kitsch;

but with some good carved and polychrome statues, and a handful of Peruvian paintings, like this lovely image of St Teresa herself, and her younger brother, running away as a child so that they could go and be martyrs to the Moors (very Dorothea-like).

The very mention of Moors made me think rather emphatically how much more magnificent Córdoba in Spain is ...

Then a walk to see - well, it's a bit like Westminster Cathedral redux, but from 1900-ish.  There was no way of getting inside ...

and it looks to have needed a lot of holding up - these are very belabored workmen.

Indeed, one of the challenges with very non-touristy Córdoba is not being able to get to see things that one would like to - a grand hall and a chapel in the University would be prime examples, instead of which I found myself only able to enter things like the library reading room, which looked like ... a library reading room.  Instead of which, things like this early C20th chapel (more Italian frescoes) which is somehow mangled up with a shopping center and art gallery were open, but ...

However, the Museo de Bellas Artes was definitely open, with a mostly dreadful exhibition of art by contemporary artists from Córdoba, and some much more haunting works commemorating, memorializing the Disappeared.  Some 20,000 people passed through the detention center here in the center of the city between 1971-1983, during the military dictatorship (the building is now its own museum), and even the few rooms of art works here in the MBA were incredibly depressing, and so redolent of - well, my own generation.  And they are a warning.

My guidebook cheerfully claimed that there were examples of nineteenth century art in this museum, but I could only find one work hanging - unless one counts the planning of the house itself, which is a monument to very late C19th taste if one were very rich and powerful, by Córdoban standards, at least.  El Palacio Garzón was designed for the Garzón family by Emilio Caraffa - the same artist who supervised the frescos in the cathedral - and here he was responsible for the huge lunette on the ceiling of the main room, Sueño Veneciano, which depicts the Garzón family being transported through the Venice lagoon by a pair of horses - it is genuinely one of the most terrible pieces of symbolist art I've ever encountered, and that's saying something.  I think the rest of the C19th art collection is in storage, and I wasn't tempted to ask to visit it.

Preferable by far were the Art Nouveau tiles in the entrance passage, 

and the wrought-iron gates outside, ordered from the French firm Durenne's catalogue.