Monday, August 3, 2026

a visit to the Ancestral, and other bits of north Norfolk

 


First, exploration of Kings Lynn - the old parts are truly beautiful: the Guild Hall; an old market place with some very wonky houses;


and a lovely Minster.


Then a bus to East Rudham.  East Rudham is such a small, and largely unspoilt village that one can easily imagine what it was like in the 1860s and 70s.  My great-grandmother - my father's grandmother, who was very involved in bringing up him and his brother Don, was born there in 1865.  She and her siblings were certainly still there at the time of the 1871 census: family lore (or my grandmother's wobbly memory) recounts that my great great grandfather was given a ride to the elections (in Fakenham, 5 miles away?) by the landowner for whom he worked, and he was overheard saying that he wouldn't vote for any Tory - and by the time they returned, his sentiments had been reported; and the family were no longer allowed to graze their donkey on the village green (below), and they were turned out of their tied cottage, and went to work in the mills in Sheffield.  But ... even after the 1884 Reform Act, my ggg still, as an agricultural laborer, wouldn't have been able to vote, and in any case, by 1881 they were all up north.  I think they must have been given the day off for the 1874 election, because I do have a sense that my gg was about 9 or ten when they moved.  But I also think that the agricultural depression was just starting to bite then, too.


In any case, the shock of living on this street must have been enormous, after bucolic Norfolk.


Even the old looking village church might have looked weird when they were leaving, since the medieval tower collapsed into the nave in 1873, and was rebuilt ...


Were they around when this, and some other medieval alabaster fragments, were found in the collapse?


And where did they live?  "Lower Anchorage," says the 1871 census.  But is this Lower Anchorage?  Yes, according to some accounts.  But it's also known as Anchorage Cottage, and Anchorage House - I can't find a separate "Lower Anchorage" on C19th (or more recent) maps, and it's been very refurbished.  (Nothing to do with mooring a boat: there was a medieval anchoress who lived there, or in an earlier structure).


I hope I can be more confident that the relative who was a blacksmith lived in Forge Cottage.


After that, another bus back to Kings Lynn, and a bas to Hunstanton - archetypal English resort if you walk in one direction;



muddy beach in another (why a pink Messi #10 short??);


rock pools looking like a nineteenth-century painting from my book;


extraordinary cliffs;


more seaweed:



a cute lighthouse;


and back for dinner at my hotel, overlooking the Ouse.


Did my great grandmother ever get to see the sea - or even Kings Lynn? - when she lived in East Rudham?































Sunday, August 2, 2026

to King's Lynn


Don't ever try Godalming to Kings Lynn on a hot August Saturday.  First train was held up by signal failture at, of all places, Wimbledon.  Tube held up at Aldgate.  All through trains from Kings Cross to KL canceled (failure with overhead wires).  Took train to Cambridge (dry countryside, above); spent some good hours in Cambridge with friend; very slow substitute train to Kings Lynn and eventually walked to the hotel (in a terrific old bank) arriving two minutes after they stopped serving dinner.  I talked my way in.

Wonderful small non-touristy river front and buildings; lovely hotel (view from my room in bottom picture).

Why Kings Lynn???  More tomorrow!










 

Saturday, August 1, 2026

family wedding


A very happy wedding - first in a field, then in a barn - for my second cousin Megan, marrying Richard: she's the daughter of my middle cousin Peter, and it was a genuine family reunion.  Is waving table napkins in the air now a custom in English weddings?  It was like people dancing the Zamba in northern Argentina...

With apologies for the fact that better photos are on my camera, not my iphone, but it's late, by now..  I was so glad to be able to come and celebrate.










 

Friday, July 31, 2026

real English countryside


This is so beautiful!  And not visibly drought-stricken, either.  It's at the end of the garden of the large pub in which I'm staying (before my cousin's daughter's wedding tomorrow), and only half an hour's walk into Godalming, and indeed on a bus route (no Tube for me, today - I really couldn't stand it - bus to Kingston, to Guildford, and then literally to the door) - it was like mainlining Englishness.  I would be lying if I said I didn't miss this.

Oh, the book?  Just the alt-text to 100 images, and the permissions spreadsheet to go - I deposited in my allocated dropbox everything else.  So no, not exactly there, but very very nearly ...










 

Thursday, July 30, 2026

miscellany from a nose to the grindstone day


The view from my window when I woke up;


the passage way into Richmond Station;


the British Library locker that wouldn't open - in solidarity with its friends, which also had "Out of Order" stickers on them - once my bag was firmly inside it;


and the reward for a hard day's work: dinner at Ottolenghi - green beans in a charred pineapple and jalapeño dressing, and some smoked labneh.

Book?  Onwards ... progress was made.







 

Wednesday, July 29, 2026

London summer


I don't think I've ever flown in LHR and seen everything look so yellow and dry: I might as well have been landing in Abu Dhabi.  it was 94 degrees when I landed. This, of course, meant that the Tube was working, or not working, rather shakily: the points at Acton Town had failed, and this meant a good deal of complicated navigation (I was glad I'd downloaded Mooveit in Buenos Aires). Yes - I know they have taxis here, but the last time I took one to where I'm staying the driver - to my mind wilfully - went to a very wrong address, and refused to take anything off the bill.  However - here I am - having dinner overlooking the Thames (a gulp of time off from picture permissions, etc).




 

Tuesday, July 28, 2026

greetings from DFW


Hello, England: I'm on my way ... I wish that meant that my book was entirely trim and tidy and all loose ends tied up, but with luck (read: a very full day in the British Library on Thursday and maybe Friday - which isn't quite what I'd planned, but there you go) it will be send off to the U of Chicago Press on time, and I'll be able to breathe fresh air by the weekend.   Today brought very large hail as I drove (and pulled over, and drove again) down to Albuquerque; a ground stop of American Airlines planes as their computer system briefly went down; and dealing with stray bits of grad studies stuff, undergrads wanting letters of recommendation for law school, and the rest of it, in interstices ...