The Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao really is the star of its own show - so many polished, textured curves. And it serves as a showcase for some huge, huge pieces of art: this Jenny Holzer;
some wonderful big curved Richard Serra sculptures in weathered steel that looked like metallic wood - "The Matter of Time" - whose curves mimicked those of the building;
and the Claes Oldenburg/Coosje Van Bruggen "Soft Shuttlecock" which is, well, big. Humans included for scale.
Then the Anish Kapoor balls outside.
I spent a very long time in the extensive Martha Jungwirth show - not because I especially like her work (though spending so much time with it gave me a much greater appreciation for it), but because it was pouring. The real treat, though, was the Ghanian El Anatsui's Rising Sea - made from discarded liquor bottle tops, and this deliberately referencing the liquor that Europeans traded with Africa in return for people to take into enslavement - but also, and mainly, about climate change, and about the enormity of its scale. It's the perfect counterpart, in this respect, to all my emphasis on the small and overlooked.
The bus ride to San Sebastian was very wet indeed -
and the supposedly stunning view from my room rather murky -
although definitely much better after dark. I'm keeping my fingers crossed I'll be able to go walking tomorrow.
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