It's not just that one can be surprised when going into a familiar room at La Posada: the grounds are rearranged as well. At least, I'm fairly sure that this metal burro and this pale blue bench weren't in this particular spot before. Yes, there are element of kitsch to it, in places - but it's very high-class kitsch: the kind that hovers between good taste and its excess. Staying here, as we travel between Los Angeles and Santa Fe, has become such a happy ritual. And it's not only great to be back, tonight, but we've been greeted by a small amount of rain - nothing short of miraculous in this parched desert, with skies smoke-heavy over the Sangre de Cristos as we drove in to town.