When I woke up, and looked out of my window, it was instantly apparent why locals are objecting to cruise ships: huge monsters, disgorging polluting smoke into what ought to be pristine air. Admittedly steam ships have been coughing out smoke for 150 years or so, but this left a thick yellow haze all day.
My window is here, somewhere, on the 4th floor.
A morning's conferencing, and then an exhibition on Successors to the Macchiaioli in a central palazzo, which apart from some late works by the Macchiaioli themselves: here's a late Giovanni Fattori, with a surprisng amount of gold underpainting;
and Donna con edera - woman with ivy - by Silvestro Lega, from 1885-7.
But apart from these, and a few others, the show was largely notable for bringing home quite how lively and oppositional the Futurists were: this stuff was very turgid, mostly, and the ceilings of the Palazzo della Meridiano were much more interesting.
Even these, though, were outshone by a meal in what can only be thought of as an anchovy themed local restaurant,
where the banner of the Slow Food movement means, perhaps, that I can count this as research ...
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